Thursday, May 28, 2015

A funny thing happened on the way to the car park…



Thursday, May 28, 2015

Bonjour!

Honestly, we had such an incredible meal on Tuesday night, that after our picnic lunch along the Vezere yesterday afternoon, (and of course my gelato…) neither of us were hungry last night, so instead, as soon as I had finished the blog posting, I went to bed at 10 pm and Robert worked until midnight!  Awoke this morning feeling very refreshed – at least I did; not sure about Robert yet. 
Sausage everywhere!

I do like to look...
Really lovely bath in our wonderful tub; we really do love this place!
Robert buying the olive stand!


Olives everywhere!

Breakfast on the patio

One of the gates into Domme
Our plan today is to work our way south into the Armagnac country, as R is a fan, and would like to see their museum and possibly do a tasting or two.  (As I can’t stand the stuff, however special it may be, I have volunteered to be the DD (Designated Driver.)  Our feeling is that driving through the French countryside just about anywhere is a lovely way to spend the day.  We may also visit some old friends like La Roque along the way.

Looking at La Roque
Gabarre on right, kayaks and canoes on left!

More of La Roque

Gabarre on the Dordogne
Well, you know how funny plans can be…we walked out of the hotel and immediately were in the weekly Domme market!  How fun!  They were still in the process of setting up, but there was lots to see and certainly lots to buy! 
Church at La Roque

That's quite a wall!

LoWe did find a nice tablecloth with lavender on it, which I think will look nice on our table.  And of course, a few other things just happened to find their way to us as well.  As we walked around the corner, of course Robert was stopped by olive vendor #1, and I thought he was going to buy the place…not to be confused from olive vendor #2, from whom we got some wonderful sun dried tomatoes in olive oil.  That decided our luncheon plans, at least – another picnic!  We bought some lovely Cantal cheese, some stunning small red strawberries, and lots of cherries for R to munch on.  Also found some lupini beans, which he really enjoys.  We found a local boulangerie where we bought a baguette for the picnic, as well as pain au chocolat for me for breakfast, and a croissant with almonds for R’s breakfast, washed down by Minute Maid O.J. – not the genuine article, but good enough.  We had breakfast outside the boulangerie watching all the activities in the market.  There was a lot going on!

Then, as we had decided to picnic, we took our purchases back to the hotel, picked up our Intermarche bag and the knife we bought yesterday, and actually made it to the car – probably closer to 10:30 when we started out at 9!  Oh well!  That’s what holidays are for! 

As we suddenly (after the market!) found ourselves in need of money, we headed out of Domme and to Cenac at the bottom of the hill to the Credit Agricole bank.  No problems.  We also walked through town, and it is really beautiful.  Although honestly, we’d be hard pressed to find a NOT beautiful spot.  From Cenac, we headed along the Dordogne, and made it as far as La Roque-Gageac, which must be all of five or six kilometers away.  And there we stopped.  First of all, the town is very small and built, quite literally, against the mountain.  There are flowers – lots of roses – everywhere, and as we were walking, we saw signs to a gabarre take-off point.  A gabarre is an old-fashioned flat-bottomed boat that used to sail on the Dordogne years and years ago transporting cargo up and down the river.  Now, they take tourists on an hour-long cruise about seven miles upstream – as far as Castelnaud, then turn around and return. 

We got tickets for the 11:30 cruise, and had a lovely wait along side the river for the boat to pull in and unload.  Then on we went. 
Castelnaud above the Dordogne

Closer up of Castelnaud

Trebuchets in Castelnaud's backyard!
We were provided with an audio-tour in English, to go along with the French guide’s commentary; all in all, a very good product and we absolutely loved being on the river!  The day was sunny and warm, and absolutely perfect out!  We passed at least five castles of one sort or another – there were three in La Roque itself, as well as two in the distance and then Castelnaud, where we have visited before.  (That’s where Robert found a full-size trebuchet, and he has been wanting ever since to get one for our backyard…)  There is really something magic about castles – most of them have been around for hundreds and hundreds of years – Castelnaud played a big part in the Hundred Years War (1347 to 1453).  But at least for me, castles always conjure up visions of princes and princesses and knights and all that sort of thing!  And here they are!  Apparently, there are more than 115 castles in this area of Perigord alone!

R has been telling me for the past few days that I HAD to write about French rivers, because, according to him, there are no more beautiful rivers in the world than these, and I’d have to say he’s right.  French rivers for the most part have been left very much alone – they haven’t been damned up or set in another course, and unlike Los Angeles, absolutely NO concrete anywhere to be found!  They just flow naturally, some faster than others, but it seems for some reason that miles and miles and miles of their banks have been left alone and undeveloped.  The trees and grass grow all around, and we were able to see a duck go past with a whole trainload of little guys following behind her. 
Momma Duck with little ones behind

Another stunning castle in La Roque

Cute guy at the picnic!
The birdlife is wonderful and varied, and honestly, the beauty of the rivers is really unsurpassed anywhere that we know of.

Beautiful town ... lots of steps!

Lovely buildings!
So, we got back from our mini-cruise about a quarter to one, and were able to secure the last vacant picnic table in the park.  I went to get the goodies out of the car, and R held the fort, or table, as it were.  Our picnic was great – with cheese, bread, strawberries and sun dried tomatoes, who needs anything else?  After our picnic, we cleaned up and took everything back to the car and went for a walk down the main street.  There are some wonderful looking hotels here, as well as restaurants.  As I said to Robert, the real problem about France is that you can only stay in so many hotels each visit, unless you want to jump around every night … and we’d rather have quality time in few places.So…I got today’s stracciatella gelato and we walked back along the river and decided that, as it was our holiday, naps sounded really good.  Got back to Domme about 2:30 p.m. and I am blogging while R is sleeping.  My turn next!  The real question is:  Will we even need dinner tonight after our amazing picnic lunch!
Amazing strawberries!

Me along main street
 
More later!
m
xxx

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