Sunday, June 7, 2015

From Indian food to the coast!



Saturday night dinner

Bonjour!

Robert's chicken vindaloo

My chicken curry
We actually decided to have dinner last night, and I thought it would be fun to take the tram into Lille.  So, we headed out about 7 p.m. to look for Les Delices de l’Inde which was described as Restaurant Indien et Pizzeria … Pizzeria?  At any rate, on Tripadvisor.com it was ranked as #18 of 1,050 restaurants in Lille.  It actually wasn’t very far from the last tram stop, just a couple of blocks, and we were able to find it easily.  The interesting thing was that it was a very TINY restaurant – only six tables, and after we sat down and saw the menu, it was a very TINY menu too – one side for pizza and the other with Indian food.  There was chicken in six different forms, and lamb in three, and one vegetarian dish.  There were no appetizers like we usually get (pakoras or samosas) and then one or two desserts.  Also, we usually share with Indian food, however, that was not to be last night!

Robert ordered chicken vindaloo, and I ordered the chicken curry, both with garlic na’an.  And when it came, wow, what a surprise!  We each got a lovely plate with rice, sauce that accompanied the chicken dish, and some cucumber, tomato and onion salad.  Everything was delicious!  Robert’s vindaloo was very spicy, which he loved, and my curry was very tastyfull.  It was quite a change from French food, and we enjoyed it very much!  Then, back to the tram and our hotel in about 25 minutes, in time to catch most of the UEFA Champion’s League final between Barcelona and Juventus.  (As Juve was my first favorite team, when I originally discovered soccer, but Barca is now my favorite, I wasn’t sure who I would be rooting for … but one look at Leo Messi, and my heart belongs to Barca!  And they won, 3-1!  Great game!  It also brought back memories of where we have been for other Champion’s League finals – one time at Philippa and Dan’s in Northampton, England and another in Ankara, Turkey!)

Sunday, June 07, 2015

Beautiful Notre Dame in Boulogne-sur-Mer

It's a big church...
Bonjour!  Only one country today – France!  (Although honestly, I think we could bag France, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands without breaking a sweat!)  However…back to today.   We were up at the usual time, and breakfast arrived at 8 a.m.  We have decided that after two very sobering and somber days on WWI, that today we would try something different … WWII maybe? 
Stunning frescos

by unknown artists...


In researching a good destination for the day, we came across Boulogne Sur Mer and its recently re-opened (May, 2015…talk about good timing!) Basilica Notre Dame crypt.  I’m normally not all that good with crypts, especially if they contain anything like bones, but this one sounded really interesting!  The site has been in use as holy ground since the 4th or 5th century, and in 1308 it was the location of the wedding of Edward II of England to Isabella of France. 

After a very nice and leisurely drive from Lille to Boulogne-sur-Mer, we were able to find parking just below the cathedral, which is very easy to find, as it stands out a mile against the sea!  It is a beautiful day – lots of puffy white clouds and blue sky.  Hard to believe that we were SO hot in Rome and Florence; it feels so odd to be on the coolish side – probably in the high 60’s.    

The original medieval cathedral of Notre Dame was destroyed during the French Revolution, and left in ruins. 
Unusual wooden carved pillars


Me amid the painted columns and walls
In the early 1800’s, when a Father at the minor seminary located next to the ruins was appointed as head, he decided to rebuild the cathedral.  As the new church was to be constructed with the materials of the old building as much as possible, the builders were instructed to dig out the old foundation which had been filled with the rubble from the old church.  They discovered an enormous crypt, complete with Roman columns.  As the crypt was being cleared, (at over 100m long, it is the longest crypt in France) they found dozens of little rooms leading off from one another, some going back to Roman times.  Besides the variety of statuary and stone capitals that were excavated, what is really astonishing is that someone – or some artists – in the mid 1800’s spent an enormous amount of time in the crypt creating frescoes and drawings on the walls and ceilings. 
Among the pieces discovered...
There are images of Saints, key figures from the Bible, Latin inscriptions – hundreds of them – absolutely stunning life size pictures created, but by whom?  There are also painted columns and ceilings, and the restoration has been meticulous in making the passages safe without causing damage to them while preserving the images and colors that had been painted years ago.  (At lease I’m hoping they are safe…) 
Painted and decorated chamber

Part of the Treasury


The crypt also contains the present church’s treasury, and the relics and paintings and sculptures are beautiful.  There are hearts of gold, golden crowns, jewels and even cannon balls fired on the town and the church by Henry VIII when he besieged Boulogne in 1544.

Organ & columns of Cathedral
After a good look around, we were lucky to get into the cathedral on top for a few minutes, as they were closing for lunch, which sounded like a good idea to us.  We walked through Boulogne looking at menus, and as we are so close to the coast, surprise!  Fish!  Yum!  We decided to try Le Swan, which has a very nice décor.  Robert ordered a bowl of mussels for starters, and they were very tiny!  For his main course, he ordered rouget, a local fish, that came with rice, green beans and a vegetable medley.  However, Robert said the fish was tough, which I would think would be hard to do, but as I don’t cook fish, I’m probably not one to comment. 
R's mussels

My seafood salad...

My boeuf bourgignon

R's rouget
I had wanted the avocado and shrimp salad to start, but they were out of avocados, so I got the fish salad … hmmm… it came topped with six or seven shrimp – with ALL parts attached, including head and tail, and then a variety of other things (mostly unidentifiable!) underneath disguised in a Marie Rose (1,000 island dressing) sauce.  I was able to eat a bit, but fortunately Robert (my hero!) came to the rescue and finished it so I didn’t have to!!  For mains, I ordered the boeuf bourguignon.  It came with a pile of French fries, which were fine.  I think I must be spoiled, because nobody makes boeuf bourguignon like Robert; it was OK.  All in all, a so-so meal, probably the first one we’ve had on our entire trip!

It was now after 2:30 p.m. so we decided to head back to Lille by the direct route, getting here a bit before 4 p.m.  We are now watching the men’s final of the French Open, and not sure if we are in for the night or not.  (If we’re not, we will have to find something VERY light!)  Then, tomorrow, we pack up and head out of town, (stopping first, of course, to do our last load of laundry!) to Bruges, Belgium, the home of waffles and frites with mayonnaise!  We will be in Bruges for two nights, then head back into France to stay at one of our very favorite long-time favorites, the Chateau d’Ermenonville – a magic kind of place with towers, turrets and its own moat!!  More later!
Stunningly beautiful day for a drive!

Much love,
m
xxx

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